Introduction
A Riviere Necklace is comprised of gemstones of the same species that are all the same size and shape or graduate smoothly in size. Historically, the gemstones were set in separate collets and later in prongs or claw mountings (much like modern tennis bracelets.) Rivières necklaces are usually designed without any ornamentation allowing the gemstones to be featured. Some rivières necklaces conceal a small hinged loop or loops that allow for the suspension of a pendant(s). Popular since the mid-eighteenth century, early designs were comprised of collets bound together by cord or ribbon while contemporary rivières are linked together. The popularity of the rivière created an everlasting classic that continues to adorn twenty-first-century décolletage.
What Is Riviere Necklace?
- One such necklace is the Riviere Necklace. These necklaces were worn in the 18th century but continued into the 19th century as they suited low necklines in evening dresses.
- The rivière necklace is usually a row of gemstones, sometimes graduated from the center, set in either a collet or claw setting. The gemstones are normally all of the same variety. The traditional gemstones are diamonds, particularly for evening wear, but less expensive versions were made with garnets, amethysts, topaz, citrines, and rock crystal.
- Rivières produced in the 18th and early 19th century were often foiled but open set settings then became more popular. Also in the 19th century, the gemstones were connected by metal links, rather than silk threads, as had been the case earlier. Some necklaces had two chains joining the gemstones. The rivière necklace remained popular throughout the 19th century and up until the 1920s.
- This rivière style of necklace also led to fringe necklaces, like the Victorian necklace and the Edwardian tourmaline necklace. More ornate versions of these necklaces, with diamonds and similar stones, were designed to function as both a tiara and a necklace and were popular from the beginning of the 19th century into the early 20th century.
History of Riviere Diamond Necklace
- No one knows exactly when riviere diamond necklaces came into being, but there are theories.
- Many believe that the diamond choker’s origins date back to 1811 when, in celebration of the birth of their son, Napoleon gifted his second wife, Marie Louise, a jewel composed of 28 round old mine-cut diamonds suspending a fringe pattern of large pear-shaped diamonds.
- Now part of the Smithsonian’s permanent collection, the Napoleon Diamond Necklace isn’t by strict definition a rivière but definitely showcases the style roots of the design in terms of its choker necklace element.
- Not to mention the jewel has clear links to its French name.
- Rivière literally translates to “river”. In jewelry, this loosely means a river of gems. If you are wondering how to pronounce it, the French say ree-vyer; in English, it’s pronounced riv-ee-air.
- The style of riviere diamond necklaces we know today became popular after the 1871 discovery of the Kimberley Mine in South Africa when diamonds flowed into the western market. Over time, there have been slight variations in its appearance, and major differences in how and where it has been worn.
- Great Britain’s Queen Mary had a 100-carat collet-set diamond rivière that was made around 1900 and epitomized the style. During the mid-twentieth century, Princess Margaret, Queen Elizabeth II’s chic sister, inherited the jewel and wore it often on its own as well as layered with other jewelry pieces.
- In Hollywood during the same era, diamond rivières and strapless gowns became a formula for great eveningwear. In the 1946 film Gilda, Rita Hayworth showed how sexy the riviere necklace accessory could be when she wore one with a black satin number for her flirtatious performance of “Put the Blame on Mame”.
- Today, celebrities are once again wearing diamond riviere diamond necklaces. The list of stars who, for the red carpet, have worn one, two, or even layered three diamond rivières includes practically every A-lister (Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Lawrence, Zoë Kravitz, and Dakota Johnson just to name a few).
Conclusion
Riviere Necklaces look spectacular worn alone or as layered necklaces. The style provides a radiance that is something akin to walking around with your own ring light, but far more magical.
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